Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 00:10:25 -0500 (EST) To: fordtrucks-digest lofcom.com
From: digest-proc lofcom.com
Subject: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0036
Reply-To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Volume 97 Number 0036 fordtrucks Digest

Today's Topics:

Re: Please recommend a camper-top, topper, bed-cap, etc.

Re: Lights
Re: NEW STICKER
The dreaded 292 Y-Block
WHAT TO DO
127,000 mile 302
'70s Voltage regulators
Re: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0035
Gen to alt conversion
Re: Gen to alt conversion
Re: Gen to alt conversion
'70s Gen to alt & regulators
Quicker 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L)
Re: 1983 ford 600 truck
Re: WHAT TO DO
Re: Quicker 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L)
Re: Quicker 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L)
Delete from mailing list
Re: Please take me off list
Re: Quicker 97-Ranger XLT (2.3L)
Re: WHAT TO DO
351M vs. 351W
Fwd: Re: Please take me off list
Fwd: Delete from mailing list
Re. Wash and Wax


* PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE THE ENTIRE DIGEST IN REPLIES TO THE LIST! *

--------------------------------------------------

>From mdniz19 idt.net Fri Apr 4 12:54:11 1997 From: Mark Dinzebach
Subject: Re: Please recommend a camper-top, topper, bed-cap, etc.
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

JLINETT SYSUBMC.BMC.COM wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am considering a camper-top for my '96 F-350. Brahma currently tops
> my list due to the lightweight materials and the fact that the brochure
> shows them rolling a truck with the unit not suffering any damage.
>
> I will need to get the cab-high or I will not be able to get into the
> parking deck here at the office. As it as, my FM antenna hits one of
> the 7' high beams on the way up, even though I had it cut down from stock!
>
> I would appreciate hearing from folks that have any experience with
> any brands/types, good or bad, to help me make a selection.
>
> Thanks a bunch,
> Jon and the Big Red One
> in Houston
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
>
I had a Brahma on a truck about 10 years ago. It seemed like a quality made product that I had no trouble with.

Mark


------------------------------
>From sky42908 skynet.be Fri Apr 4 13:02:50 1997 From: "JPC Belgium" Subject:
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

I'm very sorry but we do not want to receive your mail concerning the trucks any longer.
J.P. Claeys (jeep.city skynet.be)


------------------------------
>From wsabers sunflowr.usd.edu Fri Apr 4 14:19:35 1997 X-Authentication-Warning: sunburst.usd.edu: wsabers owned process doing -bs From: William Sabers Subject: Re: Lights
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

If you can hear the motor of the power window, but it does not move, you may be looking at a replacement clutch

W. Sabers
78 Bronco
> 69 Mach I


On Fri, 4 Apr 1997 Kalohe ctwok.com wrote:

> Topic: Re: Info Wanted
> Sorry for the delay in replying -- I just now saw your message! Anyway,
> we
> are scratching our heads and we think you have:
> a. a bad headlight switch
> b. loose connection (duh!) somewhere
> c. Bad solder joint somewhere (they heat up and do that
> sometimes)
> Best bet is to trace the electrical system from the accessory box back
> to
> the switch and then to the lights. Look for breaks in the insulation,
> bad
> connections, loose grounds. And if that doesn't work, try replacing the
> switch.
> Thanks Guys. It turned out to be the switch.
> Of course this was low on my list of things to check I started with all
> the
> coners and crimped type places. It did some good though, because I found
> some places that were bare but not yet causing problems. (yes)
> **Next problem is the power window in the drivers door.
> It works most of the time. It tries to come up and just bounces a little
> some times. The motor is working, I can here it! Just sounds like it's
> slipping ?? Guess I'll tear the door apart and look, see, listen.
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>



------------------------------
>From barr erols.com Fri Apr 4 14:39:40 1997 From: "Bruce A. Ramirez" Subject: Re: NEW STICKER
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com


Steve & Rockette wrote: 

At 11:32 PM 2/4/97 -0500, you wrote: >We have all seen the "Piss on Ford sticker."  Now I have created the "Shit on
>Chevy" sticker.  If you would like to obtain a copy of this sticker, send me
>E-mail at NameFrame AOL.com.  Include "sticker" as the subject.

  How about a sticker that says "I'd rather push a Ford than drive a
Chevrolet" ?

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach '57 F100 Shorty
'63 F100 Longbox

____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
 How About "HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD OVER A CHEVY LATELY" for a bumper sticker?







------------------------------
>From PonyTom aol.com Fri Apr 4 19:11:17 1997 From: PonyTom aol.com
Subject: The dreaded 292 Y-Block
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Fordtrucker's,

Got to up the antie to $.05 after looking up, and Miking Pistons.

Here are the specks as I know them,

292 CI....Same family as the '54 239, '55 272, and '56 292 also for '56 was a 312.
Bore....3.75
Stroke...3.30
Rod Journal dia......2.1885
Main journal dia.....2.4985
Wrist pin dia......... .912
Pin c\l to piston top...1.794 ie Compression height
Rod length................6.455 Pin c/l to rod bearing c\l

Compression ratio lower for earlier year engines, but for the later ones it was 8.8:1
Large trucks had heavier pistons, as this engine was available for Semi trucks. I don't think a twin screw was available....Does anyone know?

Tom Maguire '59 Ranchero
'78 E-350.........12,000# GVW


------------------------------
>From MOBILEDAVE msn.com Fri Apr 4 19:36:49 1997 From: "DAVID MUMMERY" Subject: WHAT TO DO
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

There has been some messages about chevy owners giving Ford owners grief. Well here is some that was just told to me.
A chevy owner was telling how much of a shit box my truck is, sooo I set him straight. His truck a 1996 chevy stepside with 9000 miles so far to date has had the following probs. 1) blown motor (350 ci)
2) electrical shorts( not just one)
3) the driver's side window motor does not work
4) and peeling paint My truck in reference 1995 F150 FlareSide 4x4 Super Cab My probs. 1) replaced the steering wheel cover
2) replaced the power mirror switch because the word mirrors had rubbed off.
My truck has almost 50,000 miles and tows a 5700 lbs boat ,takes me hunting, goes 4wheeling , and works on the farm, etc.
So I ask you who's truck Sucks!

Scott Mummery
1996 F350 Crew Cab 4x4
1995 F150 Flare Side 4x4
1966 Step Side


------------------------------
>From yhtlines surfari.net Fri Apr 4 20:54:23 1997 From: yhtlines surfari.net
Subject: 127,000 mile 302
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

My son just acquired an '88 F150 4X with a 302 and automatic (I don't even know if its OD). The truck has 127,000 miles and sounds great. He's absolutley enthralled with it, and likes it better than the 95 GMC he just had. I'm looking for any maintenance suggestions that the new owner might do following purchase, such as change the under frame fuel filterers. BTW this 302 has the eight injectors, and dual tanks.
Also does anyone know an external method of determining if this engine has roller or tappet lifters? My literature indicates the block (?) was configured for either. Let's see should we change the ignition part (what part?) and how long is reasonable before changing the timing chain?
Dave Lampert
yhtlines surfari.net



------------------------------
>From PonyTom aol.com Fri Apr 4 21:39:29 1997 From: PonyTom aol.com
Subject: '70s Voltage regulators
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Fordtrucker's,
Guess I've got to get technical again.
The small voltage regulators used in the '70s was fairly simple, and a complete wiring diagram is in the Haynes '64...'73 Mustang V8 manual...yes, it is for a Mustang, but the wiring is basic, and will work well on a retrofit.
My understanding on the subject is to first lay the regulator flat as it would be mounted, with the connecting pins up. the pin on the left goes to only the field connection on the Alternator, Next pin from the left goes to the C-3 Connection on the alternator, also to the electric choke,if so equipped.
The third pin from the left goes to the idiot light on the dash marked "alt"
Last pin on the right side goes to the battery along with the big connection on the alternator.
If there is any doubt about which pins are which...use an Ohmmeter...The first two pins should raad a fairly high resistance, where, the last pin to the right should show an open circuit everywhere.
Good luck
Tom Maguire '59 Ranchero
'78 E-350......12,000# GVW


------------------------------
>From dlove iwaynet.net Fri Apr 4 23:41:41 1997 From: "David S. Love" Subject: Re: fordtrucks Digest v97 n0035 To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

>We have all seen the "Piss on Ford sticker."
>How about a sticker that says "I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevrolet" ?
>Ive seen one that Reads, This is your brain, This is your brain on drugs,
> FORD CHEVY

Don't forget: "CODE BLUE! CODE BLUE! THE HEARTBEAT HAS STOPPED!"

'97 F-150 4X4



------------------------------
>From rmeier connect.net Sat Apr 5 01:03:47 1997 From: rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)
Subject: Gen to alt conversion
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Tanya writes:
>Or would it be better to use a stock
>type Charge light and if so does it have to be a certain wattage bulb. I
>know on my VW the charge light had to be the right wattage because the >bulb
>actually completed the circuit. The truck is a 1964 F-100 223? 6cyl 3-spd.
>Any help would be much appreciated
>
> Thanks a bunch,

Good work, you got it going, and yes the charging light is needed for reliable operation of the alternator. It supplies a small current to the field winding to start the alternator going, then when the relay (inside the voltage regulator) connected to the stator connection closes, the light is disconnected from the circuit and is no longer needed. They will frequently start without the bulb just from residual magnetism, but not reliably. The wattage of this bulb is not critical just so long as it supplies the needed startup current to the field. A bulb the same size as the low oil pressure indicator (or any of the dash lights will do for that matter) should assure a reliable startup.

As to your question about the ammeter, there are several ways to connect it and I am not familiar with how the aftermarket folks do it. If the wires going to the meter are heavy wires they probably carry full alternator current and would be connected between the starter relay + post and the B+ connection on the battery, and you would need to remove the heavy wire that is now there. This is not a good way to do this but since it allows the use of a cheaper meter, this may be the way it is done. If the wires going to the meter are small it is a shunt type meter and would be connected across a shunt that is placed in the line going from the starter relay to the battery + post. The factory installation may use the wire going from the relay to the battery as a shunt. Sorry I am not much help on this, but you got the alternator going, I suspect you will figure out the meter also.
Regards,
Roger Meier



------------------------------
>From tanya tx3.com Sat Apr 5 02:05:53 1997 From: "Tanya Wagger"
Subject: Re: Gen to alt conversion
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com

Hi Roger,
Thanks for the quick response. You have peaked my interest now in reguards to the charge light. There was only 1 wire that comes into the cab and that one is the energizer wire for the reg. I have it wired to the back of the ign, a circuit which is only on when the key is on. I guess my question is where does the charge light hook in? I assume it would have to be inline so the current could pass through it? I think if I hook it to the energizer wire it will just stay on since it just has 12v going through it when the key is on. Anyway if you know give me a holler.
Thanks again for everything see ya later,
Charlie

----------
> Tanya writes:
> >Or would it be better to use a stock
> >type Charge light and if so does it have to be a certain wattage bulb. I
> >know on my VW the charge light had to be the right wattage because the
>bulb
> >actually completed the circuit. The truck is a 1964 F-100 223? 6cyl 3-spd.
> >Any help would be much appreciated
> >
> > Thanks a bunch,
>
> Good work, you got it going, and yes the charging light is needed for reliable
> operation of the alternator. It supplies a small current to the field winding
> to start the alternator going, then when the relay (inside the voltage
> regulator) connected to the stator connection closes, the light is
> disconnected from the circuit and is no longer needed. They will frequently
> start without the bulb just from residual magnetism, but not reliably.
The
> wattage of this bulb is not critical just so long as it supplies the needed
> startup current to the field. A bulb the same size as the low oil pressure
> indicator (or any of the dash lights will do for that matter) should assure a
> reliable startup.
>
> As to your question about the ammeter, there are several ways to connect it
> and I am not familiar with how the aftermarket folks do it. If the wires
> going to the meter are heavy wires they probably carry full alternator current
> and would be connected between the starter relay + post and the B+ connection
> on the battery, and you would need to remove the heavy wire that is now there.
> This is not a good way to do this but since it allows the use of a cheaper
> meter, this may be the way it is done. If the wires going to the meter are
> small it is a shunt type meter and would be connected across a shunt that is
> placed in the line going from the starter relay to the battery + post.
The
> factory installation may use the wire going from the relay to the battery as a
> shunt. Sorry I am not much help on this, but you got the alternator going, I
> suspect you will figure out the meter also.
> Regards,
> Roger Meier
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> To send mail to fordtrucks, use the address: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> For help send a message with "HELP" in the body to:list-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com




------------------------------
>From karlc cnsii.com Sat Apr 5 02:30:03 1997 From: Karl Cunningham Subject: Re: Gen to alt conversion
To: FORDTRUCKS ....

---

To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.