fordtrucks-digest V1 #4

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Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 21:15:22 -0600 (MDT)
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fordtrucks-digest Wednesday, August 20 1997 Volume 01 : Number 004

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Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 05:55:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill Rotureau
Subject: Suspension and 390s

Hey Folks,

Haven't posted much lately, but got a couple of questions for any and
all:

(1) Has anyone seen (or done) a four bar rear suspension set up for a
1964 F100. You know, the kind with the four bars, coil over shocks
> and panard bar replacing the leafs. I have seen these kits in the
mags for early models (thru '56) but nothing for the '58 - '66. I
have replaced the front suspension with a Volarie set up and would
like to finish the "street rod" job. No I don't do off-road or heavy
hauling with this truck. Daily driver...

(2) Now this is non-truck question so forgive me... I have a '64
TBird (390/4V). The 390 kinda relates to trucks, right :-). Had a
miss (or surge) coming off idle, replaced ALL ignition parts, rebuilt
the 4100, replaced the vacuum advance (AutoZone). Miss still there
and a awfull knock (sounded like rods). Weeeell, disconnected the
vacuum advance to check timing, dwell, etc, and the miss was not there
when I came off idle. Came up to 3000 rpm, smooth as can be, no miss,
no knock. Plugged the line to carb, jumped in and went for a drive.
Smooth, good acceleration, no hesitation (for a 4500lb car with the AC
on). What gives? This is a "dual advance" distributor and the
mechanicals seem to be working just fine... What would cause the
vacuum advance push the timing so far forward. The part number on the
advance I got was correct even according to Ford. All other vacuum
stuff is working fine (and Lord knows there is a ton on the these old
Birds) - this is a 390 question, not a Tbird question. BTW, the
engine has 81K on it, has had a complete head workup done - new
springs, lifters, push rods, valves, milling, etc.

I would appreciate opinions/help on either of the above...

Thanks,

===
Bill in Texas
'64 Thunderbird Hardtop
'64 F100 Shortbox

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Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 08:22:09 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Rusted bed screws on Ranchero

Spray them liberally with penetrating oil and leave for 2 days.

- ----------
> From: MadPoodle

aol.com
> To: JBair

webtv.net; owner-fordtrucks

ListService.net;
fordtrucks

ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Rusted bed screws on Ranchero
> Date: Wednesday, August 20, 1997 4:21 AM
>
> Before breaking out the smoke wrench, have you tried a hand impact?
Usually a
> few smacks on the impact with a suitable hammer (Personal pref 48oz
deadblow
> oooh oooh oooh ;-) usually does the trick....
>
> l8tr
>
> Scott

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 07:03:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul
Subject: Security..my truck stay mine

Thanks to everyone who gave their .02 on my silly questions and ID
inqueries. It came in real handy and kudos to Kenneth the admin for getting
the list going again in such a short time.
I now own a mostly stock rock solid 4x2 1975 F250 crew cab w/390
4V, Np-435 4-speed, Dana 60 3.73. Has anyone put a on hood lock? What did
you use? A large chain/lock is effective but crude and a hidden kill switch
will be useless unless the hood is secure. As a last resort I'll put on a
stock inside the cab "pull", but will it fit on the earlier years? What
kind of gas milage are the rest of the worlds 390's getting out there? I'm
getting 7.8 mpg but that will improve. ; ) I also recieved my ford 1975
shop manuals with more info than you can shake a stick at.....if I can help
anyone with numbers, info,blah,blah,....

Thanks, a new old ford truck owner.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 09:06:35 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: Rusted bed screws on Ranchero

>I need to get the bed off my Ranchero to replace the shocks-but the screws
>are partially rusted on and I can't get a grip on them. Any suggestions as
>to removing these screws? Would a propane torch give me enough heat to
>loosen?
>
How are you going to remove the "bed" from a Ranchero? This would require
removal of the entire body, wouldn't it?

_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss

inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 08:52:54 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: CDI Ignition Module

>> But what's with the "CDI CONNECTIONS"???
>> The duraspark setup sure ain't no Capacitive Discharge unit, it's just a
>> simple transistor switch.

> I took CDI CONNECTIONS for See Da Instructions for Connections.
> Everyone was out partying in those days, who had time to build a CDI?

Yeah, I was a HS sophomore and kind of an electronics nerd back then...
But I didn't build it for me, a friends brother *paid* me to build it for
his 440 roadrunner. A guys had to make beer and drug money somehow! (-:

>> Many were offered as assemble Yourself kits thru Heathkit and others.
>> (I built one in '75)

Keep on truckin man,

Steve Delanty
1971 F100 FE390

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 10:30:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Rusted bed screws on Ranchero

> Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 14:57:03 -0800
> Subject: Rusted bed screws on Ranchero
> From: Nathan Yost

> I need to get the bed off my Ranchero to replace the shocks-but the
> screws are partially rusted on and I can't get a grip on them. Any
> suggestions as to removing these screws? Would a propane torch give
> me enough heat to loosen? Nathan Yost 63 Ranchero

What type of heads do they have? I use an hand impact, 3/8 drive
with a hammer for that type of problem with some success. If it's a
phillips or slotted screw head, get a 3/8 drive bit and impact driver
(about $20), clean the heads very carefully with a pick and slighly
torque the driver in the desired direction while applying as much
down force as possible while striking it with a hammer. Use quick
but not overly forcefull blows, not taps and reset the bit in the
head after each blow. I'm still amazed at how well this works (most
of the time) :-) Apply penetrating oil or wd40 liberally and let it
soak over night before attempting it for even better success :-)

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 10:46:29 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 76 F100 Question

> Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 15:22:01 -0700
> From: Don Grossman
> Subject: Re: 76 F100 Question

> Except for the supercab's. The SuperCab was built on the F-250
> chassis and had a leafspring front end. The first year for the coil
> was the 65' BTW.

Which explains why the super cab has the F-250 steering box on it!
and the fact that F-250's have leaf springs explains why they also
mount on the inside of the frame instead of outside like the broncos
and f-150's of that vintage. Boy am I learning a bunch today!

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 11:18:46 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Rusted bed screws on Ranchero

He wants to remove the floor panel in the bed to get to the shock mounts.

- ----------
> From: John Strauss
> To: Ford Trucks List
> Subject: Rusted bed screws on Ranchero
> Date: Wednesday, August 20, 1997 9:06 AM
>
> >I need to get the bed off my Ranchero to replace the shocks-but the
screws
> >are partially rusted on and I can't get a grip on them. Any suggestions
as
> >to removing these screws? Would a propane torch give me enough heat to
> >loosen?
> >
> How are you going to remove the "bed" from a Ranchero? This would
require
> removal of the entire body, wouldn't it?
>
>
> _
> _| ~~. John Strauss
> \, _} jstrauss

inetport.com
> \( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 09:18:20 -0700
From: sdelanty

Yeah, I was a HS sophomore and kind of an electronics nerd back then...
But I didn't build it for me, a friends brother *paid* me to build it for
his 440 roadrunner. A guys had to make beer and drug money somehow! (-:

>> Many were offered as assemble Yourself kits thru Heathkit and others.
>> (I built one in '75)

Keep on truckin man,

Steve Delanty
1971 F100 FE390

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 12:07:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Harmonic balancer

> Date: 19 Aug 97 21:56:03 EDT
> From: DC Beatty
> Subject: RE: Harmonic balancer

> They need to be yanked with a steering wheel puller. This keeps it
> from pulling apart.
>
> > Will someone PLEASE tell me if a harmonic balancer can be
> > repaired

They make a nice, inexpensive damper puller just for that purpose and
it really does make the job easier, in fact if you have an axle slide
hammer you could probably use the crows foot part with a bolt of the
right thread in the center to do it since the design is almost
identical. (slots might be too far apart tho)

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 11:31:29 -0500
From: Kevin Lindstedt
Subject: Re: Security..my truck stay mine

At 07:03 AM 8/20/97 -0700, you wrote:
>>
Has anyone put a on hood lock? What did
>you use? A large chain/lock is effective but crude and a hidden kill switch
>will be useless unless the hood is secure. As a last resort I'll put on a
>stock inside the cab "pull", but will it fit on the earlier years? >

My 1978 F150 came with a factory *locking*, i.e. key operated, inside hood
pull - not sure it would fit your '75 but I'd think it should. Finding one
might be another story :-)

Kevin
1978 F150 Ranger Lariat 460/C6 2wd

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 12:43:20 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Gears

> Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 17:49:58 -0400
> From: Joe DeLaurentis
> Subject: Gears

Don't know which list it's from but it bounced from his personal
address so I'll try this:

> Gary,
> what gears are you running with your 460 and 33's???

I've run 3.5, 3.25, 2.75 and 4.11 at various times with various sizes
including the 33's. In my 78 PU with 29" tires a wide ratio C-6 and
2.75's I get the best economy (about 12) and due to it's awsome
torque, more than adequate performance. In the 4x4 van with standard
C-6 gearing, 4.11's and 33's I got 6 - 8 mpg and with 3.25's about 10
but the engine wasn't running it's best either and I used stock
converters in both trucks. My personal feeling about this is that you
need to keep the engine rpms around 2k - 2100 rpm at 60 for best
economy with any of the near stock big blocks including the 351M/400
or 429/460. I was told to keep it at 2500 since that's a typical
stock engine torque peak but I've found that with torque cams 2k -
2100 is better but then you need proper gearing in the lower gears (as
evidenced by my experience with the van) to get you up to speed
without lugging too much or the economy suffers again. The 78/79
vintages came with wide ratio C-6's from the factory in many (perhaps
all) cases so I lucked out there. This is serviced with the E4OD pack
now with a few special washers added according to the SVO catalog.

In the bronco with manual 4 speed, 351M, 3.5 gears and 33" tires it
lugs a bit in low (second) but gets pretty good mileage at 60 (about
14) When I put in the 460 I will probably keep the 3.5's as the
4.11's will spin the motor too much wasting economy (again, as shown
in the van). 3.25 might be closer to optimum but there are not really
any strong 3.25 ring gear configurations so we have the 3.00 or 3.5 as
best choices and I think the 3.0 would be too tall with 33's (3.25's
came in Lincolins and big wagons and such back in the 70's with the
460 and 400 engines)

It really depends on the transmission lower gearing ratios and
camming of the engine. Taller transmission gearing will average
better mileage with slightly lower rear end gearing and higher cam
overlaps will need more revs for drivability and will have higher
torque peak rpm, 2.5 - 2.8k rpm or even higher, torque cams typically
will like to cruise around 2k rpm. Of course you can use higher stall
converters with autos to overcome some of this and run slightly taller
rear gearing but manuals will wear out clutches and lose economy if
you gear them too tall.

I hava an Exell spread sheet I use to compare ideas on this sort of
thing and just saw an article on formulas in one of the off road
magazines which will help you figure it all out. I did it the hard
way but they use constants which eliminate some of the math.

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 10:08:24 -0700
From: sdelanty

pacific.net

63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

Phase 172: rebuild front suspension
>
------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 11:35:05 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
Subject: RE: Suspension and 390s

OTTOMH i can't recall where, but i have seen back halves for trucks
(chevy?ford?years?). you just cut the frame section out and weld in this
section which has all attatchment points for coil overs and four bar links.
they are usually skinnier than frame for fitment of larger meats, and are
used many times to lower the back of the truck also. maybe summit has info
on one.

why do you want four link for daily driver? if using heim joints they will
wear out fast on DD, and also transmit lots of noise vibration. if you
want a truck that hooks well for drag racing, a leaf spring setup can work
even down into the low 10's. have you thought about using radius arms?
some chevys had them in back and i saw an older bronco fitted with the
chevy parts and it looked good and worked well. the arms are massive and
are not castings - so they can be welded/cut/formed easily.

all in all, it will be a mostly custom job however you decide to do a
suspension without leafs.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Bill Rotureau[SMTP:gypsybill

rocketmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 1997 1:55 AM
To: fordtrucks-digest

ListService.net
Subject: Suspension and 390s

Hey Folks,

Haven't posted much lately, but got a couple of questions for any and
all:

(1) Has anyone seen (or done) a four bar rear suspension set up for a
1964 F100. You know, the kind with the four bars, coil over shocks
> and panard bar replacing the leafs. I have seen these kits in the
mags for early models (thru '56) but nothing for the '58 - '66. I
have replaced the front ....

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