You will need (cost estimates from mainly Wal-Mart)

• 6 quarts of your new oil (see decisioning below; ~$4/quart for Mobile1 Synthetic 0W-20)

• Socket or wrench for the oil plug

• Socket or Wrench for the FRAM SureDrain Valve Install

• Oil Filter (see decisioning below; ~$2.50 for Ford MotorCraft FL-820-S)

• Oil filter wrench (the type that is a padded band of steel; ~$2.00)

• Shop rag(s)

• Oil collection bucket (at least 6-7 quarts, ~$6.00)

• FRAM SureDRAIN Oil Pan Valve (Model SD-2; ~$14.00 – Check for your proper size)

Costs

• First Time: ~$48.50

• Second Time: Mobile1: $26.50 (MotorCraft 5W-20: $13.00)

Ford recommends the MotorCraft 5W-20 oil changed every 5000 miles. This is half as often as I changed the oil on the 150K mile Explorer XLT. I plan on changing the Mobil1 every 5000 miles, while I get an idea of how well the oil wears with my driving…I might add a 1000 miles if the oil looks very good (synthetics should last longer); but I want to balance that with the need to remove contaminants from the engine.

If I switch to MotorCraft 5W-20, then I would change religiously every 4000-5000 miles with regular driving, and religiously at 3000 if I am taking a trip or towing my trailer. Right now, I am spending the same amount of money on oil changes as I did on my Explorer, but I get to use Mobil1 because I will likely keep it in the system twice as long. These are my thoughts, read the boards to formulate your own.

6 Quarts of Your New Oil

• ~$4/quart for Mobile1 Synthetic 0W-20); and ~$1.90 for MotorCraft 5W-20 at Wal-Mart

• You need 6 quarts

I decided to run with Mobil1 Synthetic (0w-20) as I feel it best matches the Ford requirement of 5W-20 (it says it is specially formulated fro Ford 5W-20 requirements); check the boards for other Mobil1 grades; Also it is winter in Colorado Springs (03/2004).

My next choice (and one I may use during the summer because of more driving, more oil changes, and lower costs) would be MotorCraft 5W-20 (also at Wal-Mart)

Thirdly, I would select a Castrol product, likely their synthetic (good reviews on the boards, good oil)

Socket or Wrench for the oil plug/Valve Install

Get a socket wrench or open-ended wrench for removing the plug (usually part of a standard set of wrenches). You will also need a larger size for inserting the oil drain valve (this size is typically NOT part of a standard wrench set; you may need a channel lock).

Oil Filter

The decision for the filter is an easy one (MotorCraft FL-820-S (check for your vehicle)). If I did not have that available to me, I would go with Purolator Pure One, or WIX, or thirdly Mobil1 or CarQuest (actually a WIX). You can search and read more if you cannot decide. The Ford filter is a very good filter, if not the best.

Oil Filter Wrench

I chose and recommend the type that is a padded band of steel (~$2.00 at Wal-Mart). Luckily, I grabbed the right oil filter wrench at Wal-Mart (the trusted padded band of steel). This wrench gets tighter as you rotate it, flip it around for the other direction, very cheap; and the handle rotates so you can find a position to move the filter. The one at Wal-Mart fits with out a lot of play, and that works to advantage in the Expedition filter removal. The quarters are tight, but I am big handed and faired OK; I expected a lot worse.

Shop Rag(s)

You have a ragbag of old/throw-away clothes? The red rags or fine linen should work. Cotton absorbs oil better than polyester. The first time you do this you may need several when you miss- judge wear the oil will go coming out of the oil pan (DAMHIKT).

Oil Collection Bucket

I got a cheap and simple unit from Wal-Mart. it has two holes for collecting oil and one cap for discharging it at Autozone/PepBoys oil recycling locations (you DO recycle don't you??!!). I have to say, that I do not like it entirely well and may have to get another.

Finer points of oil collection buckets: make sure it will hold the amount of fluids you expect it drain (>6 quarts); the Wal-Mart design has the plugs in the bottom of the collection area. So even when it is plugged the area where the oil splashed is still wet and exposed. If you plug the container area after you have drained the oil to move the container, you will return 4 hours later and see more oil has fallen into the recessed plugs and covered or soiled them even more.

Another design I saw at other stores has a 6" to 8" cap that covers the area where the oil would drain. There is a grating there so that filters can sit and drain, and you cannot lose the oil pan plug. When you cover the drain area to store or bring to the recycle center the oily areas should be completely covered. I will likely replace with this model.

FRAM SureDrain Oil Change Valve

I decided to get the oil drain valve to make oil changes easier when I do them in the future. The valve replaces the oil pan plug.

When I want to change the oil I remove a simple hand-tighten cap; the kit comes with a ~8" tube and connector that screws on to the new oil pan valve. When you twist the connector the last two turns, it opens the flow of oil through the tube. Less mess, better control on where the oil goes. I bought it at Checker, but I see them at Wal-Mart ~$14 here is the link for more info ( http://www.fram.com/ ). My vehicle takes the SD-2 model.

How to Change the Oil and Filter/ How to install a FRAM SureDrain Valve

• First, you will need to warm up the engine a little to get the oil a little warm. I ran my engine for a few minutes until I saw the temperature gauge start to pick up off of dead cold (mornings here in Colorado are still maybe 35*F). You do not want to do this after a lot of driving as the engine may get very hot and the oil could give you a nasty burn or the engine itself. We are just trying to warm the oil so that it flows easier and we get more of it out.

• Make sure the car is on level ground, or maybe leaning to the passenger side (the plug is on the passenger side of the oil pan); have your tools ready and make sure to review your procedures. Set the parking brake.

(NOTE: This is the order that I did it. Caveat: this is the first time I have changed my own oil since high school; see note below for other possible order.)

• Lay down with your belly in front of the driver's tire and look up through the driver's front wheel support/steering arms (I am sure to be corrected on the exact name ), and you should see the oil filter. Some may have the oil filter remotely mounted under the front bumper on the passenger side or elsewhere, consider yourself lucky. Yes, it is tight, but doable. It was easier than I expected.

• If you have never changed the oil you may find that the factory has torqued the filter on pretty tight; if you can't remove with the filter wrench, I suggest having the Ford folks change the first time and replace with only hand-tightening. Some might suggest spiking a srew driver through, but I think it is too tight to do that.

• Use your hand to wiggle the filter wrench around the filter. You may want to rotate the handle slightly for more clearance. Now apply pressure to loosen (righty-tighty; lefty-loosy). You will find because of the crowded nature that you can rotate only 1/32 or 1/16 of a turn. That is OK (think happy thoughts like "Wow, the Expedition is the greatest truck in the world; maybe we should start a foundation for people who drive Dodges or Chevys to help them with their affliction."). Keep up the slow loosening of the filter with the wrench until it can be loosened by hand.

• Now that you have loosened the filter, you need to prepare the oil bucket to receive it. Have it nearby and place it under the passenger side of the front differential. If you look carefully, you will see a plastic cover on the differential that will guide oil from the filter opening over the front differential and drip to the bucket. Prepare for the oil to come from there. As you come to the final turns be ready to tilt the filter up to keep oil in the filter. Remove the filter and turn upside down on the collection pan. I had maybe 1/2 cup of oil drain over the shroud.

• Next, position yourself to loosen the oil pan plug on the passenger side of the oil pan. A word of warning if you have not done this, or not in a while: When you finally remove the oil plug the oil done not come straight down, the oil plug is on the side, so the oil will actually arc towards the passenger tire before it falls into the bucket. I lost a quart on the driveway. Next time I will have the FRAM SureDrain and be prepared.

• Take the time to observe the oil coming out of the pan; how dark is it? There are places, I think that can take a sample and let you know more. Otherwise, if it is dark you are likely not changing often enough. Let ALL the oil drain; until it drips (do you think they wait at the quick change places – this is why you are doing it yourself).

• From one of the new oil bottles take a finger of oil and lubricate the rubber gasket on the oil filter. Replace the filter, being careful not to mess up the threads. Most folks will just hand tighten the filter, and they have no problems. Because of the tight quarters to get to the filter, I used the wrench to tighten another 1/4 to 1/2 turn to make sure it is snug and leak free.

• Read the instructions that came with the FRAM SureDrain. Wipe off the oil pan opening, carefully screw in the valve and torque to the recommended level. Replace the cover to the new valve.

• With the filter on securely, and the new drain valve and cap installed tightly, you should be ready to refill the engine with oil. Put in 4-4.5 quarts of oil. You should just see the oil on the dipstick. Do not just add 6 quarts. Some have overflowed the system. When you have 4.5 -5 quarts in, replace the cap, crank the engine, this is to distribute the oil and fill the oil filter with oil. Shut down, and add the remainder of the oil at .5 quart increments, while checking the level. Keep in mind you will likely not go to the FULL mark on the dipstick. When you have 6 quarts in you are likely done.

• Wipe down the engine block near the filter; wipe down the plastic shroud on the front differential, wipe down the oil pan. Make sure you have no oil on your back or clothes before driving again, DAMHIKT. Take the car out for a spin and warm the engine up, stop and take another look at the fill level. The Ford Manual recommends that you do not add oil if the level is between the low and full marks on the dipstick. You should be fine if you have added 6 quarts. Others may have opinions to add.

NOTE: I suspect that there is some question about the order on draining oil. I did this: remove filter, remove oil plug/replace filter/replace plug/replace oil. I was surprised how little oil came out of the filter and the filter hole in the block. I chose to remove the filter first as I read that there might be a vacuum and all oil may not drain. Next time I think I will: loosen the oil filter to hand tight, open the oil fill cap on top; remove the drain plug to start the removal of oil/ THEN finish the removal of the filter while the oil pan is draining. The boards may correct me.

NOTE: Some might suggest filling the oil filter with oil before replacing, however on the side-mounted engine block oil filter I think this may be difficult because of the close quarters. If you have a remotely located oil filter, then it should be no problem; some say this will reduce the 'no oil in the system' issue when you first crank the engine. If you are fairly quick about changing the oil, this should not be a problem when you first crank the engine and the new oil is dispersed throughout the engine.

If I did not change my own oil, I would consider the following:

For $8 Wal-Mart will change your oil and filter with the oils and filter of your choice (they sell both (MotorCraft filter and Mobil1 0W-20 oil (and other grades)), so it would save you the mess and hassle and you get exactly what you want; however you can't go down in the pit and look at the oil coming out and look at the other parts of the vehicle)

I understand that Ford will also sell you the labor, and allow you to choose the oil and filter.

I hope this helps someone out, as you know you are responsible for making sure you are using the correct fluids, filters etc.